To kick off 2024, Love and I decided to take somewhat of an adventure to the remote Buscalan Village in the Cordillera mountains of the Philippines. Our mission was to meet the legendary Apo Whang Od, the last mambabatok (hand-tap tattoo artist) of her generation. People from all corners of the country, and even beyond, apparently make the pilgrimage to meet this living legend and walk away with a piece of her artistry etched into their skin. Intrigued? You bet I was.
Leaving the comforts of our condo in Manila, we squeezed into a van and embarked on the 14-hour road trip. With limited legroom and air conditioning, we were packed like sardines in a can, feeling every bump and turn along the way.
The pristine mountainous terrain was breathtakingly beautiful. The road was as twisty as a bowl of spaghetti after a particularly enthusiastic toddler feeding, and punctuated by generous amounts of bumpy roads and potholes. At times, the thrill of the journey turned to sheer adrenaline as falling stones and debris from the mountaintops dropped perilously close to and even on top of our van, which was recklessly speeding through it all like there was no tomorrow.
Looking down the cliffs from the high elevation of the roads, I couldn’t help but think of those old Roadrunner and Wile E. Coyote Looney Tunes cartoons. The sheer drops and rugged landscape felt both surreal and incredibly real, making it one of the most intense road trips of my lifetime.
Arrival at the Edge of Tradition
We parked at a rest stop directly across Buscalan around midnight. The mountain air outside was cool and brisk, reminiscent of a Southern Californian Spring night. Love, her friends, and cousin were definitely feeling the difference, unaccustomed to the chilliness. It was a welcome change from the concrete jungle of Manila for me. The tranquility of the Cordillera mountains serenaded us with the gentle hum of the wilderness, offering a peaceful respite.
The tour guides lit a bonfire, providing warmth and comfort to those who wanted it. We all slept in the van, eagerly awaiting the next day’s hike to our destination.
A Sunrise to Remember
The morning of our ascent greeted us with the most memorable sunrise of my time in the Philippines. The sound of roosters crowing, birds chirping, and the mountain breeze was just what the doctor ordered. Rice terraces bathed in morning light stretched across the mountains, a breathtaking reminder of how majestic this country can be.
Tourists around us were warming themselves up with coffee and instant noodles. The souvenir shop buzzed with adventure-seekers purchasing their “I survived Buscalan” T-shirts, Whang Od refrigerator magnets, and Rastafarian-themed beanies. The anticipation was mounting.
The Hike to Buscalan
In order to reach Whang Od’s village, we had to take a 45-minute hike—not too tough for those in moderate shape. The trail, equipped with steps and handrails, led us through a valley, crossing a crystal-clear creek.
Locals, accompanied by their trusty dogs, guided us along the way. I was pleasantly surprised to see that these dogs played a vital role in the community, patrolling and guiding visitors with a sense of purpose. They looked much healthier and happier compared to the scrawny street dogs of Manila.
Our Arrival
When we arrived in Buscalan that morning, I was taken aback by the number of tourists. Buscalan was bustling with activity, with Apo Whang Od and her nieces, Gracia and Elyang, tattooing a steady stream of eager visitors. I was told that Whang Od never married or had children, thus her nieces have been entrusted to carry on the mambabatok tradition.
The Art of Mambabatok
Including Whang Od’s iconic three dot tattoo, which represents the last three nodes of the mambabatok legacy, there were roughly 24 preset tattoo designs that you could choose from. The naturalistically-inspired designs uncannily reminded me of Native American tribal motifs. They were crafted using a calamansi thorn dipped in charcoal ink, tapped into the skin with a bamboo stick – no modern tattoo guns here.
Savoring the Simplicity
While we wouldn’t meet Apo Whang Od until the next day, I contentedly kicked back with a Red Horse beer, taking in the scenery. Walking through the village, I was happy to find plenty of native Filipino chili trees (siling labuyo). I couldn’t resist picking a couple to spice up my meals.
While walking through the village, I noticed meat sun-drying on the roof of a home—a sign of the village’s self-sufficient lifestyle. A well-kept basketball court, complete with chickens roaming around and children playing outside, added to the charm of this tight-knit community—a rarity where I come from in the US.
The Mesmerizing Rice Terraces
The rice terraces were novel to me, being that I had only read about them in middle school history books prior to coming to Asia. Vibrant green shoots of rice contrasted with the weathered stone walls, creating a landscape that was both aesthetically pleasing and humbling. And while we tourists huffed and puffed our way up and down the inclines, the local dogs navigated the terrain with effortless grace – a constant reminder of the harmony between the inhabitants of this land and their environment.
A Calm Night in the Cordillera Mountains
As night fell, the grandiose serenity of the Cordillera mountains enveloped us once more. The cool mountain air and the absence of light pollution created the perfect recipe for sleep. That night, under a sea of stars, I drifted off into the deepest, most peaceful sleep I’d had in years.
Meeting the Legend: Apo Whang Od
We woke up to our last day in Buscalan, finally ready to meet the legend herself, Whang Od. As we approached her humble home, a long line of over a hundred fans flocked to see her. The patio buzzed with anticipation, vloggers readying their cameras and microphones to capture the moment.
For a 107-year-old, Whang Od had an impressive demeanor and vibe—remarkably friendly and not cranky at all. What struck me was her fashion-consciousness; she truly carried herself like the worldwide icon she is, almost like a rockstar. Focused and with purpose, she tattooed her guests like clockwork. Maybe this unwavering sense of duty to her community contributes to her incredible longevity?
The Secret to Longevity
Looking at Whang Od, you’d never guess her age. While some people my age were already battling the aches and pains of seniorhood, Apo Whang Od radiated with vitality. The whispers started circulating – a mainly vegetarian diet with occasional indulgences in pork and fish, all locally sourced and organic. Fresh mountain air, clean water, a life of servitude to her community, and a reliance on natural herbs and medicines supposedly played a part too. Maybe there was a lesson here – a simpler, more natural way of life held the key to a long and healthy existence.
A Personal Encounter
It was finally time for my encounter with the legend herself. I was slightly nervous, having been advised that she sometimes gets a kick out of touching men she is fond of in their nether regions. As I handed her a box of her favorite chocolates and asked for a picture, chants of “Happy Birthday” from the crowd started to fill the air…and then, she did it. Taking it with a grain of salt, I thought to myself that some consider it an honor.
This was probably one of those times that my Anthropology degree came in handy.
Tour Operator Info
Shout out to Sir Francis the owner, and Kuya Alex the driver, who got us to and from Buscalan Village like a seasoned pro. If you’re interested in experiencing the same tour we did, here is the tour company’s info:
FD Travel & Tours
Address: Block 21 Lot 3 Amaia Scape Bulacan, Bulacan, Philippines
Phone Number: 0977 237 6861
Email: [email protected]
Facebook link: facebook.com/fdtraveltour?mibextid=LQQJ4d