Vietnam had always been on my bucket list. As someone whose love for food and travel was sparked by watching Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern and No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain on the Travel Channel, I’d long dreamed of experiencing the places they showcased. For years, I watched these shows marveling at the bustling markets, amazing street food, and cultural nuances. Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, was a city I was destined to visit at some point. Join me as I take you through this Hanoi food and cafe guide, uncovering the most memorable foods, hidden gems, and must-visit cafes that make this Vietnamese city a world-class foodie destination.
How I Discovered Vietnamese Cuisine
In college at UC Santa Barbara, my connection to Vietnamese cuisine started. Somehow, I found myself surrounded by friends who were Vietnamese, and they introduced me to the wonders of pho and other classic Vietnamese foods. Frequent trips to local pho restaurants became a weekend ritual, and I couldn’t help but seek out Vietnamese egg rolls whenever the chance presented itself, with their crispy, savory perfection. I also looked forward to the days my neighbor returned from Westminster, bringing banh mi sandwiches stuffed with rich, savory pork and tangy pickled vegetables.
Vietnamese cuisine captivated me with its layers of flavors—rich and complex, yet refreshingly bright thanks to fresh herbs like lemongrass, coriander, and mint. It was a culinary experience that always stuck with me throughout my life, leaving me eager to experience the real thing in its birthplace.
Our Destined Journey To Vietnam
Living in Manila has its perks, especially for foodies and travelers like ourselves. Many Southeast Asian destinations are just a stone’s throw away, with budget-friendly flights making international travel almost irresistible. Roundtrip fares to Hanoi costed us around ₱10,000(Or around $200 usd)—a steal for a destination so rich in culinary tradition and history.
Why Hanoi?
I did some research and Hanoi had been said to offer a more culturally remarkable experience compared to Ho Chi Minh City (Aka Saigon), and as fate would have it, everything seemed to align for this trip. Love somehow has friends in every corner of the globe—including Hanoi. Her friend Jeremy, a data analyst living in the city, graciously took a week off work to be our guide. To top it off, Love’s cousin, Von Jo, an avid traveler, decided to join us on this trip.
Flying From Manila To Hanoi
We booked our flights with Philippine Airlines, and before we knew it, we were soaring toward Hanoi. After a smooth four-hour flight, we landed late at night. As we exited the plane, I noticed the thick haze surrounding the airport terminal. Fog? Smog? Either way, it was a surprising first impression.
SIM Cards and Connectivity Made Easy Thanks To Klook
Once we collected our luggage, our first task was to grab Vietnamese SIM cards for our phones—something we had conveniently pre-ordered through Klook. The process couldn’t have been easier: the staff installed the SIM cards for us, and within minutes, we were connected and ready to go.
First Impressions of Hanoi
Jeremy met us promptly at the airport, even though it was close to midnight Vietnamese time. He booked a Grab and within about 30 minutes, we entered Hanoi’s city limits. The streets were quiet yet full of character, with rows of narrow houses and motorbikes parked neatly outside. It was only the beginning, but I could already feel the city’s vibe.
Hanoi feels like a movie set—its French colonial architecture standing as a testament to its history, with a distinctly Vietnamese twist. The buildings are impossibly narrow and tall, like long square pipes stacked shoulder to shoulder. Many boast ornate European-style balconies, the kind where neighbors could lean out and gossip over morning their morning coffee, just like in the old films. It was charmingly surreal.
Ingenious Spaces and Motorbike Mysteries
What really got me was how these skinny multi floor buildings manage to house everything, including motorcycles. Somehow, they’re parked inside—who knows how or why? The pragmatism is almost poetic. I found myself wondering if Vietnam even has fire safety laws, but maybe that’s part of the thrill of it all.
The Streets of Hanoi: Organized Chaos
The streets themselves were an experience, Vietnamese motorists have absolutely no chill. Mopeds zoom through congested roads like water rushing down a rock-filled stream, spilling over into what seems to be narrow pedestrian alleys and, occasionally, sidewalks. Yet somehow, it works. There’s a rhythm to the chaos that defies explanation. And despite the whirlwind of activity, the streets were remarkably clean, as if swept by unseen hands.
Our Airbnb was a welcome sight after the madness of the traffic. Surprisingly large for what we paid, it was tucked in a quiet area near the Financial District, surrounded by many good places to eat—clearly, the universe knew my priorities. After a quick drop-off of our luggage, we ventured out for a late-night bite at a nearby restaurant Jeremy recommended.
The walk was eerily quiet. Hanoi at night takes on a different face—hushed and contemplative, like the city is catching its breath. The streets glistened faintly under dim streetlights, and the occasional sound of mopeds faded into the distance. We stepped into a small, unassuming spot Jeremy swore by, and I could already smell the aroma of pho and fresh herbs wafting through the air. Our first meal in Hanoi was calling.
Quán Tuấn Râu And The Power of Pho
Jeremy brought us to a place called Quán Tuấn Râu, open well past midnight, where the atmosphere was as chaotic as it was welcoming. A group of rowdy college students—probably a little too much bia (beer in Vietnamese) —were gathered around, watching soccer with the kind of passion you’d expect from a packed bar in Europe. I had no idea soccer had this kind of hold on Vietnam. But then again, it makes sense—passion runs deep in these parts, whether it’s for the game or the food.
Revitalizing Beef Pho: A Midnight Savior
We ordered pho—beef pho, to be exact. Jeremy commented that this version reminded him of Filipino caldereta, and as soon as I took my first bite, I understood what he meant. The broth was rich and savory, but balanced by the freshness of lime and herbs. And yes, I was thrilled to see that they’d given us generous wedges of lime on the side—something I hadn’t had in far too long. It was like they could sense the gap in my soul that only lime could fill. Just what the doctor ordered, I thought, wiping the sleep from my eyes. This was the kind of pho that could resurrect you after a long flight and even possibly a night of bar hopping.
Vietnamese Mango Salad
We also ordered something I didn’t expect to find: mango salad. In my mind, mango salad belonged to Thai cuisine, but in Vietnam, it was just as refreshing and sharp as any Thai salad that I had ever tasted. The sweet tang of mango paired with a spicy, tart dressing was so revitalizing on a dreary, muggy night.
| Name: | Quán Tuấn Râu |
| Address: | 643 Đ. La Thành, Giảng Võ, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Beef Pho, Mango Salad |
| Rating: | 4.1 / 5 |
The Sights And Sounds Of A Morning In Hanoi
The next morning was our first full day in Hanoi, and it didn’t take long for the awakened city to captivate me. As we walked the streets, I couldn’t help but notice the vibrantly-colored crepe myrtle trees—bright purple flowers bursting forth like confetti. It’s a rare sight, blooming only during the first days of May, and somehow we had arrived just in time to witness it. Locally, they call it bằng lăng, and it felt almost surreal to be surrounded by these flowers as the city came to life.
What struck me was the contrast between the chaotic streets of Hanoi and the calm, almost meditative nature of the locals. People sipped coffee at sidewalk cafés, while a sea of mopeds surged by, seemingly undeterred by the traffic or the heat. You’d even see air conditioners sitting nonchalantly on the sidewalks cooling off locals, as though the city itself had a personality, managing to blend the old with the new in the most unusual ways. And of course, there was the ever-present sight of the nón lá, the iconic Vietnamese straw hat—its humble simplicity matched only by its practicality.
Exploring the French Quarter: St. Joseph’s Cathedral
We made our way to the French Quarter, a place where history hangs in the air like the faint aroma of baguettes fresh out of the oven. Our destination was the St. Joseph’s Cathedral, Hanoi’s oldest church, which had weathered two wars. It stands as a quiet reminder of the city’s Catholic history, established in 1659, and somehow, its peaceful resilience against time and turmoil mirrored the spirit of the city itself.
But history only whets the appetite for what comes next. And next on my mind? One of the greatest sandwiches in the world: banh mi. These Vietnamese sandwiches have long held a special place in my heart, and I knew Hanoi was the birthplace of some of the best of their kind. I wasn’t about to miss the opportunity.
Bánh Mỳ Mama: A Local Gem
Before the trip, I had scoured Google for the highest-rated banh mi stalls in Hanoi, and one name that kept popping up was a humble food cart called Bánh Mỳ Mama. It was conveniently located near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, so we made a beeline for it.
Jeremy, ever the guide, took a quick look at the menu and recommended the bánh mì thập cẩm. The phrase thập cẩm translates roughly to “with everything,” and this sandwich was exactly that: a Vietnamese French baguette filled with a mouthwatering combination of sausage, pork, egg, and pâté. The sandwich was balanced with refreshing coriander, lettuce, and a zing of pickled veggies—all for just 30,000 dong.
| Name: | Bánh Mỳ Mama |
| Address: | 54 Lý Quốc Sư, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, VN 100000 |
| What We Had: | Bánh Mì Thập Cẩm |
| Rating: | 4.6 / 5 |
Coffee and Chaos
Armed with our banh mi sandwiches, we made our way to Trà Chanh 26 Nhà Thờ, a café directly across from St. Joseph’s Cathedral. There’s a certain charm in pairing food and coffee with an unforgettable view, and I knew my first Vietnamese coffee experience had to be just as memorable as the bahn mi sandwhich in hand. Jeremy, ever the seasoned local, recommended the bạc xỉu, a Vietnamese iced coffee that seemed perfect for someone like me—a self-proclaimed non-coffee person.
The Art of Bạc Xỉu
The name bạc xỉu translates to “white coffee,” referring to its light, creamy color. Unlike the more intense, jet-black ca phe sua da, the bạc xỉu leans smoother and sweeter, using fresh milk rather than the syrupy condensed kind.
A Memorable First Sip
As I took my first sip, I was amazed by how balanced it was—delicate but not dull, with just enough coffee aroma to let you know it meant business. The layers of froth, coffee, and milk formed a visual treat, almost too beautiful to stir. For a moment, I thought to myself, Who needs Starbucks when coffee like this exists?
Vietnam’s Coffee Legacy
It’s ironic, really—I’m not a coffee person, but Vietnamese coffee might just change that. It’s not just the flavor; it’s the culture surrounding it. Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer, all thanks to a single Arabica tree introduced by French Catholic priests in 1857. That fact alone made me appreciate every sip even more.
| Name: | Trà Chanh 26 Nhà Thờ |
| Address: | 26 P. Nhà Thờ, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Bạc Xỉu |
| Rating: | 4.6 / 5 |
Tasting My First Banh Mi in Vietnam
With the caffeine starting to do its job, it was time for the main event—the banh mi. Living in Southern California, I’d had my fair share of versions, ranging from authentic hole-in-the-wall gems to sad, overly Westernized imitations. But this was different. This was Vietnam, and this banh mi was the real deal.
The Ingredients That Elevated a Classic
The first thing that struck me was the egg—perfectly cooked, with a golden yolk that oozed just enough to blend into the flavors. Then there was the pâté, rich and unashamedly bold. I couldn’t help but think how far some places in California had strayed, replacing pâté with mayo, diluting the soul of the sandwich. The pâté here reminded me of corned beef in some strange, nostalgic way, adding a salty depth that tied everything together. The crisp baguette, fresh herbs, and pickled vegetables harmonized synergistically—simple ingredients elevated to something extraordinary.
Chaotic Efficiency: The Streets of Hanoi
As we ate, Jeremy pointed out a particularly chaotic intersection. “One of the best things to do in Hanoi,” he said, “is to sit at a café, eat breakfast, and watch the traffic.” He wasn’t wrong. It was chaos in motion—mopeds weaving through cars, pedestrians strolling fearlessly into the fray, the occasional vendor pushing a cart laden with wares. “I once bought a sofa,” Jeremy added casually, “and they delivered it tied to a moped.”
I couldn’t help but laugh. Chaotically efficient—those were the words that came to mind. Much like the city itself, there’s a method to the madness, a rhythm to the noise. And as I sipped my coffee and savored my banh mi, I realized this was the kind of moment that made travel worthwhile—the kind of moment that stays with you long after the journey ends.
French Elegance at the Hanoi Opera House
With our bellies full and caffeine still buzzing in our veins, we decided to take a stroll toward the iconic Hanoi Opera House. The French influence was impossible to miss—the architecture a romantic ode to another era, its neoclassical grandeur feeling almost out of place amid the endless sea of mopeds and chaotic streets. Its quintessentially French design felt plucked straight out of Paris and dropped into the heart of Hanoi. It was beautiful, no doubt, but also a stark reminder of the complex and often painful past between France and Vietnam. History, after all, isn’t just written in textbooks—it’s etched into buildings, streets, and even the food you eat.
Tailored Traditions in Hanoi
But before we reached the Hanoi Opera House, Jeremy led us into a small shop along the main thoroughfare. Bamboo Silk, his personal tailor, was the kind of hidden gem that makes you question how you’ve been overpaying for clothes your whole life. Here, for just $200, you could walk away with a custom-made suit tailored to perfection. Jeremy raved about their craftsmanship. I found myself longing for an excuse to buy one. Alas, a tailor-made suit doesn’t fit into the life of a t-shirt-and-shorts kind of guy, no matter how tempting it was. Still, it was fascinating to see how Hanoi’s tradition of skilled tailoring could offer such incredible value for what, back home, would barely cover a mid off-the-rack jacket.
The Reverence of Ho Chi Minh
After soaking in the Opera House, we booked a Grab to our next destination: the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum. The atmosphere shifted as we approached. Gone were the rowdy streets and café-lined corners. In their place were solemn crowds of locals and curious tourists, all here to pay respects to Uncle Ho, as he’s affectionately called.
Ancestor Worship and Cultural Perspectives
For an American, it was an interesting experience to say the least. Von Jo, Love’s cousin, offered an insight I hadn’t considered before. Growing up in the U.S., I’d been fed the narrative of Ho Chi Minh as a despotic figure, no different from the likes of Kim Jong Un—leaders who cynically brainwashed their citizens into worshiping them. But Von Jo explained that this perspective misses the mark, especially in East Asia, where traditions of ancestor worship run deep. For many Vietnamese, Ho Chi Minh isn’t seen as a divine figure, but as an ancestor—a founding father who fought for his people’s freedom and survival. The respect paid here wasn’t mindless reverence; it was rooted in cultural tradition.
Reflections in the Shadow of the Mausoleum
The mausoleum itself felt heavy with Soviet nostalgia—vast open spaces, symmetrical gardens, and imposing, brutalist structures that loomed over the area like sentinels of a bygone era. This was my first time in a socialist one-party country (As opposed to a fascist one-party country), and the experience was undeniably thought-provoking. The Vietnamese Communist Party, grounded in Marxism-Leninism and Ho Chi Minh’s own ideologies, still holds a firm grip on the nation. Yet here, in the shadow of his mausoleum, it didn’t feel oppressive. It felt… reflective.
Buddhism and Spiritual Balance at the One Pillar Pagoda
From the solemnity of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, we ventured toward the nearby One Pillar Pagoda—a small but striking piece of Vietnam’s spiritual heritage. The pagoda, perched like a lotus on a single concrete pillar rising from a serene pond, was built to symbolize enlightenment. Surrounding the site were teachings on Buddhism, expounding the karmic philosophy of cause and effect. It was a quiet, contemplative space, yet a reminder of Vietnam’s unique balance between spirituality and state control.
Religious tolerance here comes with caveats. As long as the faith aligns with the party’s approval, it’s free to flourish. Among the sanctioned religions are Buddhism, Catholicism, Protestantism, Hòa Hảo, Cao Đài, and Islam—16 in total. It struck me as pragmatic on their part, a system that keeps tradition alive while ensuring it doesn’t challenge the socialist framework.
Legacy of Ho Chi Minh
Back at the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the tone shifted once again. The halls were filled with cultural relics honoring Uncle Ho, from everyday items to grandiose art pieces paying homage to Marx and Lenin. The artistic curation felt eclectic—20th-century European works juxtaposed with Vietnamese interpretations of the American War (what we call the Vietnam War back home). The term gave me pause, a subtle reminder of how narratives shift depending on who’s telling the story.
The exhibits that focused on Ho Chi Minh’s daily life were perhaps the most interesting. His possessions—humble to the point of asceticism—painted a picture of a man who led a revolution yet lived modestly. His iconic rubber slippers, famously fashioned from repurposed tires, sat on display like sacred artifacts. I’ll admit, I regret not picking up a pair from the museum shop. To think of something so utilitarian becoming a symbol of resilience was oddly poetic.
One exhibit recreated his office, complete with a typewriter that seemed frozen mid-sentence, as though Ho Chi Minh himself had just suffered from writer’s block. It wasn’t flashy, but it felt intimate—a glimpse into the mundane moments of a man mythologized by history.
Góc Quê: A Taste Of The Northern Vietnamese Countryside
After the cultural experience of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum, Jeremy whisked us away to a dining experience I’ll never forget. Nestled within the Dong Da district, Góc Quê was a hidden gem—a rustic restaurant reminiscent of the Northern Vietnamese countryside. Its vintage décor, koi pond surrounded by bamboo, and lush vegetation offered a peaceful retreat. Spanning three stories, the restaurant felt like an escape, almost secretive, as though it wasn’t meant to be found by tourists like us.
If it weren’t for Jeremy, we’d never have stumbled upon this place, let alone navigated its entirely Vietnamese menu. There were no English translations, no photos to guide us, and no English-speaking staff. While Jeremy did his best with his limited Vietnamese, even he admitted the language’s tonal complexity was a challenge. Thankfully, Google Translate came to our rescue. After some deliberation, we used the app to ask the waitstaff for a sampling of their best-sellers.
When the food arrived, it was astonishing how much variety and quality we got for such a reasonable price—especially in a restaurant so well-kept. The dishes told stories of the countryside: its simplicity, its resourcefulness, and its celebration of family and community.
Fried Tofu with Fermented Shrimp Paste Sauce and Lemon Balm Herb (Đậu Phụ Chiên Lướt Ván)
This dish was my introduction to mắm tôm, the quintessential fermented shrimp paste of Northern Vietnam. Known for its pungent aroma, the dipping sauce combined mắm tôm with chilies, calamansi, sugar, and MSG. The fresh tofu and accompanying lemon balm herb were delightful on their own, but the dipping sauce pushed my boundaries. Despite my interest in strong fermented condiments like Thai fish sauce or Filipino bagoong, this was just a bit too fishy for me. Jeremy assured me it’s an acquired taste, much like blue cheese in the West.
Stir-Fried Bamboo Shoots with Beef (Măng Trúc Xào Thịt Bò)
A simple yet elegant dish, this featured marinated beef stir-fried with tender bamboo shoots, chilies, and green onions. The pronounced flavor of the beef stood out, and I imagined how the smoky aroma of a traditional wood fire would elevate this dish in the countryside. It felt comforting—wholesome and deeply satisfying.
Vietnamese Countryside Roasted Duck (Vịt Quay Góc Quê)
This was the star of the meal. The duck was seasoned with five-spice powder, garlic, fermented rice wine, honey, and herbs, creating a savory-sweet profile that was irresistibly flavorful. Served with sugar, chili powder, and lime on the side, the dish was brightened by the fresh mint garnish. It was festive yet grounded—a perfect representation of countryside cooking.
Grilled Sliced Meats with Blood Sausage and Rice Noodles (Thịt Dải Nướng)
This dish was a sensory delight. Grilled meats, blood sausage and rice noodles served with an array of fresh herbs. Typically reserved for family meals and special occasions, the dish carried a variety of flavors and textures, embodying the communal spirit of Vietnamese dining.
| Name: | Góc Quê |
| Address: | Ngõ 183 Đặng Tiến Đông, Hanoi, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Fried Tofu with Fermented Shrimp Paste Sauce and Lemon Balm Herb (Đậu Phụ Chiên Lướt Ván), Stir-Fried Bamboo Shoots with Beef (Măng Trúc Xào Thịt Bò), Vietnamese Countryside Roasted Duck (Vịt Quay Góc Quê), Grilled Sliced Meats with Blood Sausage and Rice Noodles (Thịt Dải Nướng) |
| Rating: | 4.3 / 5 |
Awesome Brews And Views At Clover Coffee & Tea
After our hearty meal at Góc Quê, we made our way to Clover Coffee & Tea, a sprawling seven-story café that offered more than just a great cup of coffee. Each floor has its own charm, but the highlight was the rooftop terrace on the seventh floor, which offered stunning views of Dong Da Lake and the busy streets of Hanoi.
The café is a haven for manga and anime fans, with an impressive collection of manga books available for customers to borrow. The decor was dotted with anime-inspired elements, adding a playful and nostalgic vibe. For couples on a date ,or anyone in need of lighthearted fun, there are claw machines ready to test your skill (or luck). Clover also has an in-house bakery with a collection of fresh pastries, making it a versatile spot for cafe enthusiasts.
Vietnamese Egg Coffee
It was here that I had my first taste of cà phê trứng, or Vietnamese egg coffee—a drink I had long been curious about but hesitant to try. Initially, the idea of coffee combined with egg seemed odd, but the experience proved me wrong.
The drink arrived beautifully presented, with a golden frothy layer dusted with a sprinkle of cinnamon. It resembled a creamy dessert more than a coffee. One sip was all it took to convert me—the flavor was rich, velvety, and indulgently sweet, reminiscent of a custard rather than anything eggy. The balance between the strong, bold Vietnamese coffee and the silky egg mixture was perfect. Sitting on the rooftop terrace, sipping my egg coffee, and taking in the serene view of Dong Da Lake was a moment of calm amidst the chaos of Hanoi.
| Name: | Clover Coffee & Tea |
| Address: | 259 Đặng Tiến Đông, Hanoi, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Egg Coffee (Cà Phê Trứng), White Coffee (Bạc Xỉu) |
| Rating: | 4.4 / 5 |
Dinner at MET Vietnamese Restaurant
That evening, we made our way back to Hanoi’s French Quarter with our destination being MET Vietnamese Restaurant, one of the city’s well-loved dining spots with several branches. This particular branch stood out not only for its food but also for its exceptional customer service, with staff fluent in English—an added comfort for travelers like us navigating Vietnam’s amazing food scene.
Bánh Xèo
The standout dish of the evening was undoubtedly the bánh xèo—a Vietnamese ‘pancake’ that I had never tried before. It’s one of those local specialties that might remain under the radar outside of Vietnam, but it deserves far more recognition. The crispy, golden crepe/pancake was stuffed with shrimp, pork, and mung beans, giving it an interesting mix of savory and earthy flavors.
Jeremy, always the helpful local guide, showed us the right way to eat bánh xèo:
- Grab a piece of fresh, crisp lettuce.
- Tear off a section of the pancake.
- Add Vietnamese basil and fresh mint for that herbal kick.
- Roll it all up in rice paper and dip it into a tangy chili sauce.
The combination of textures—the crunch of the crepe, the soft filling, and the fresh herbs—was brilliant. Each bite delivered layers of flavor and a refreshing lightness that I didn’t expect from something called a “pancake.”
Spring Rolls Done Three Ways
Next up was the spring roll trio, which elevated my appreciation for Vietnamese spring rolls to a whole new level. The variety of flavors and textures was simply amazing:
- Fresh spring rolls stuffed with beef—a clean, delicate flavor balanced by the fresh herbs.
- Fried spring rolls filled with pork—crispy and savory, a perfect contrast to the fresh rolls.
- Summer rolls with shrimp and pork—light, refreshing, and packed with subtle sweetness.
The presentation was simple but elegant, and the dipping sauce brought everything together.
Classic Comforts: Beef Pho & Fried Rice
The beef pho that we ordered here was everything I’ve come to expect from this quintessential dish: a rich, herby broth, tender beef, and perfectly cooked rice noodles. There’s something inherently comforting about a steaming bowl of pho, and this one was no exception—it was a reminder of why it’s beloved worldwide.
The seafood fried rice, while not the highlight, held its own. Light, non-greasy, and studded with crispy shallots, veggies, and tender seafood, it was a solid supporting dish that rounded out our meal.
| Name: | MET Vietnamese Restaurant |
| Address: | 29 P. Hàng Trống, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 11000, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Bánh Xèo, Spring Rolls Done Three Ways, Beef Pho, Seafood Fried Rice |
| Rating: | 4.4 / 5 |
Xôi Nguyệt: A Hearty Morning Staple
Just steps away from our Airbnb on Dao Tan, we discovered a Vietnamese sticky rice stall that Jeremy had raved about—Xôi Nguyệt. This unassuming spot, tucked into the daily hum of Hanoi’s streets, turned out to be one of those memorable local finds, especially for someone coming from the Philippines.
Xôi: Sticky Rice Done The Vietnamese Way
Vietnam’s xôi is a traditional morning meal, one that aligns with Filipino tastes. With its emphasis on meat and rice rather than the fresh herbs typically found in Vietnamese cuisine, xôi hits close to home for many Filipinos, who favor heartier, herb-free dishes. Perhaps it’s cultural, I thought—maybe herbs in the Philippines are often associated with medicine rather than everyday meals for the most part.
For just 45,000 dong each, we got the “thập cẩm” treatment, a loaded combination that’s both ridiculously cheap and satisfyingly filling. The dish featured:
- Sticky rice (the star of the show)—soft, glutinous, and mildly sweet.
- Pork floss—fluffy, savory shreds of dried pork.
- Chinese sausage—sweet and smoky, adding depth to each bite.
- A whole boiled egg—a simple yet hearty addition.
- Rich, creamy pâté that melded perfectly with the rice.
- Juicy, flavorful grilled pork—the smoky char added a layer of richness.
- Crispy fried scallions that brought a subtle aromatic crunch.
- Cool, refreshing slices of fresh cucumber to balance out the heavy flavors.
The result? A dish bursting with umami and texture—sticky, savory, smoky, and creamy all at once. It was quite flavorful, and honestly, the portion size was massive. Xôi Nguyệt felt like a proper introduction to Hanoi’s grab-and-go morning culture: simple, comforting, and unapologetically filling. It’s the kind of meal that keeps you going for hours, whether you’re a local navigating the daily grind or a traveler ready to explore every corner of the city.
| Name: | Xôi Nguyệt |
| Address: | 90 P. Đào Tấn, Ngọc Khánh, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Xôi Thập Cẩm |
| Rating: | 4.3 / 5 |
Jazzy Cafe: A Hidden Retreat Above Hanoi’s Chaos
Tucked away in what feels like a speakeasy high above Hanoi’s bustling streets, Jazzy Cafe is one of those hidden gems that makes you wonder how places like this stay under the radar. Located near what locals call “Japanese Street”, the cafe occupies the 8th floor of an otherwise nondescript building, its unassuming entrance making the discovery all the more satisfying.
Atmosphere: Vintage Meets Modernist
The moment we stepped in, Jazzy Cafe felt like an escape—an antidote to the city’s clamor. The interior design struck a unique balance: clean, modernist lines were juxtaposed with nostalgic touches like vintage record players and even a cassette player (yes, gasp-worthy). It was a place that invited you to sit back and savor life at a slower tempo.
The skyline view from the balcony was nothing short of spectacular. With the towering Lotte Tower in sight and the city sprawling below, we spent some time soaking it all in, remarking yet again how cafes like these make Starbucks feel so irrelevant in Vietnam.
Occasionally, live jazz performances fill the space—adding another layer of charm to the already atmospheric retreat. For digital nomads or students looking for a calm, inspiring workspace, it’s hard to imagine a better spot.
Drinks to Remember
The menu surprised us with its variety: smoothies, juices, teas, coffees, and even beers—something for every mood. We sampled:
- Bạc xỉu—the Vietnamese classic, reimagined. Made with coffee, cashew milk, and condensed milk, it was smooth, creamy, and indulgent without being overly sweet.
- The Matrix—a stunning concoction of butterfly pea tea, hibiscus tea, lime, brown sugar, and fresh mint. What blew me away was its vibrant, layered hues that looked like something artificial—but no food coloring here. Just natural, refreshing goodness in a glass.
- Dirty Matcha Latte—exactly what I expected, in the best way possible. The earthy matcha paired perfectly with the bold coffee, creating a rich, caffeinated treat that hit all the right notes.
| Name: | Jazzy Cafe |
| Address: | 86 Linh Lang, Ba Dinh District, 8th Floor, Ba Dinh, VN |
| What We Had: | Bạc Xỉu, The Matrix, Dirty Matcha Latte |
| Rating: | 4.3 / 5 |
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
As a former anthropology major, visiting museums has become something of a ritual for me whenever I travel—a way to gain a deeper understanding of the local culture. The Vietnam Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi was no exception, offering an insightful and beautifully curated glimpse into the country’s rich ethnic diversity.
The Exhibits: A Showcase of Diversity
The museum’s exhibits were neat and well-organized, with English descriptions that made the experience accessible to us and informative. I was particularly impressed to learn about the many ethnic groups that make up Vietnam—each with their own traditions, practices, and ways of life. It’s a side of the country you might not immediately see when strolling through Hanoi’s streets.
What caught me slightly off guard was the presence of elephants in the cultural artifacts and photography. I hadn’t expected these animals to hold such significance, and it was a pleasant reminder of how regional environments influence cultural development.
Cultural Ecology: An Anthropology Major’s Fascination
As someone quite interested in cultural ecology, I found myself engrossed in learning how Vietnamese communities utilize their natural surroundings. The exhibits highlighted the ingenious use of bamboo, silk, and wood—natural resources transformed into handicrafts, tools, and homes.
This was especially evident in the traditional house exhibits scattered throughout the museum grounds. Walking through them felt immersive, almost as if I were stepping back in time. These structures, carefully reconstructed, made me interested to venture out to the provinces of Vietnam at some point—to see these traditional ways of life firsthand, beyond the urban sprawl.
Bún Bò Huế Ngự Uyển
After our enlightening visit to the Museum of Ethnology, Jeremy took us to Bún Bò Huế Ngự Uyển for lunch—a restaurant that, unbeknownst to us, would challenge everything I thought I knew about bun bo hue.
The Bún Bò Huế: A Different Kind of Delicious
In Southern California, bun bo hue was always my go-to comfort soup for rainy days—spicy, rich, and unmistakably red. I had always associated it with a fiery broth that packs a punch.
But here, the bowl that arrived in front of me was clear—rich yet not spicy at all, a subtle beauty that felt completely counterintuitive to my expectations. It was a humbling reminder that dishes evolve and adapt depending on where you enjoy them.
The bowl featured:
- Thin slices of beef, tender and flavorful
- Congealed pork blood, with its earthy richness
- Thick rice noodles, springy and satisfying
- Fish balls and fresh spring onions
Each spoonful was a balance of comfort and simplicity, a version of bun bo hue that was new to me, yet undeniably authentic.
Nem Lui
Jeremy—our guide and patient food tutor—insisted we try the nem lui, a dish as interactive as it was delicious.
Charcoal-grilled ground pork skewers were molded around lemongrass stalks, a fragrant base that enhanced the smoky, savory flavor. The dish came with:
- Freshly-sliced pineapple, cucumber, and carrots
- A generous spread of herbs
- Rice noodles and rice paper for rolling
And then there was the dipping sauce—Nước Lèo, a unique blend of flavors made from pork liver, peanut butter, fermented soybeans, and sesame seeds. It had a rich, nutty, and slightly funky complexity that I had never tasted, let alone imagined before. Jeremy once again guided us through the process: grabbing a sheet of rice paper, layering on the pork, vegetables, and herbs, and rolling it all up before dipping it into the sauce.
Each bite was a satisfying explosion of textures and flavors—smoky pork, crunchy vegetables, and that unforgettable sauce.
Vietnamese Spring Rolls: A Celebration of Freshness
We rounded off the meal with spring rolls, and I must say, they were among the freshest I’ve ever had. The vegetables were so crisp it felt as though they’d been sliced moments before arriving at the table. Paired with a creamy peanut dipping sauce, it was the perfect light and refreshing accompaniment to our meal.
| Name: | Bún Bò Huế Ngự Uyển |
| Address: | 67 P. Nguyên Hồng, Láng Hạ, Đống Đa, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Bun Bo Hue, Nem Lui, Spring Rolls |
| Rating: | 4.4 / 5 |
Bún Chả Sinh Từ: Discovering a Hanoi Staple
Before arriving in Hanoi, bun cha was a dish I had neither tried nor heard of—a glaring oversight, considering its status as a quintessential Hanoian meal. That all changed when we visited Bún Chả Sinh Từ, a chain restaurant specializing in this smoky, savory delight.
What Makes Bun Cha Special
At its core, bun cha brings together simple yet perfectly executed elements:
- Juicy grilled pork—smoky, charred, and packed with flavor
- Tender vermicelli noodles that soak up the accompanying sauce
- A medley of fresh herbs, adding brightness and a touch of bitterness
- Sweet-savory dipping sauce—a mix of fish sauce, vinegar, sugar, and garlic that ties everything together
The meal includes various cuts of pork: slices of grilled pork belly, chunks of juicy grilled pork, and even flavorful burger meat patties—a trifecta of smoky goodness. As soon as I dug in, I knew I had been introduced to something special. The smoky, charred meat paired with the delicate noodles and tangy dipping sauce created a flavor profile that was impossible to resist. I couldn’t help but think:
“This is the kind of dish that pairs perfectly with an ice-cold beer.”
From now on, bun cha is something I’ll always be on the lookout for, whether in Hanoi or outside of Vietnam.
| Name: | Bún Chả Sinh Từ |
| Address: | 44 P. Đào Tấn, Cống Vị, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Bun Cha |
| Rating: | 4.7 / 5 |
Café Giang: The Home of Vietnam’s Iconic Egg Coffee
No trip to Hanoi would be complete without a visit to Café Giang, the birthplace of Vietnamese egg coffee. This historic café, established in 1946, is the place where the unique concoction first came to life—a perfect blend of coffee and egg yolk that has since become a hallmark of café culture in Hanoi.
Atmosphere and Experience
The entrance to Café Giang is narrow, which only adds to the charm and character of the place. On the day we visited, it was raining cats and dogs, adding a cozy, intimate vibe to the café’s vintage Vietnamese decor. Despite the weather, the ambiance was warm and inviting, offering a peaceful respite from the bustling streets of Hanoi.
The Egg Coffee
We ordered both the hot and iced versions of the famous egg coffee. While both were enjoyable, the hot version stood out for me, delivering a richer, more pronounced flavor. However, neither version truly blew me away in the same way that other coffee experiences—like the bac xiu or Clover Coffee egg coffee—had.
A Michelin-Recognized Experience
Even though the egg coffee didn’t completely win me over, the café’s long history and Michelin-star status certainly add to its appeal. Café Giang holds a special place in Hanoi’s coffee scene, and for anyone visiting the city, it’s a must-see destination to experience the origin of this unique Vietnamese creation.
| Name: | Café Giang |
| Address: | 44 P. Đào Tấn, Cống Vị, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Hot Egg Coffee, Cold Egg Coffee |
| Rating: | 4.1 / 5 |
Bia Hai Xóm: A Local Canteen Experience with Draft Beer and Local Vietnamese Dishes
One of the most authentic spots we visited was Bia Hai Xóm, a local canteen and beer hall where you can enjoy a wide variety of Vietnamese food alongside refreshing draft beer. The atmosphere was perfect for soaking in the local scene.
Food and Beer Pairings
We kicked off our meal with a draft beer tower, a fun and communal way to enjoy a round with friends. Love and Jeremy pointed out that the place had Vietnamese lechon, so of course, we had to order it. Heo Quay—the Vietnamese version of roasted pork—is marinated with a blend of spices and herbs, offering a flavorful bite. While tasty and a great pairing with beer, I couldn’t help but feel that Filipino lechon still held the crown in terms of crispiness and flavor.
Ga Rang Muoi
Another standout dish was Ga Rang Muoi, which featured marinated chicken fried with a special blend of roasted salt. The skin was incredibly crispy, and the unique flavor of the roasted salt gave it a nice, savory punch. It was the perfect snack to enjoy with a cold beer.
Cultural Insights
As a former anthropology major, I’ve always tried to approach other cultures with an open mind, but I was a bit surprised when I saw dog on the menu. Out of curiosity, I asked the waitress about it. She seemed a little caught off guard and emphatically responded that it wasn’t available. Maybe it was a matter of cultural sensitivity or an instruction from management not to offer it to foreigners, but it certainly added an interesting layer to our experience at Bia Hai Xóm.
| Name: | Bia Hai Xóm |
| Address: | 5 P. Phan Kế Bính, Cống Vị, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Heo Quay, Ga Rang Muoi, Seafood Fried Rice |
| Rating: | 4.2 / 5 |
Top of Hanoi: A Rooftop Experience with a Stunning View
Located on the 65th floor of the Lotte Tower, Top of Hanoi is a rooftop bar that offers a spectacular 360-degree view of the city. The panoramic vista is truly breathtaking, especially as the sun sets and the city lights start to twinkle.
Drinks and Cocktails
The drinks and cocktails are expertly crafted, and the bar has a wide selection to choose from. While the beverages are enjoyable, the quality of appetizers didn’t quite match the height of the venue’s allure. They were decent, but not as exceptional as the views or cocktails.
Pricey But Worth It?
While the experience was memorable, everything at Top of Hanoi came with a relatively high price tag. Given the stunning views and the atmosphere, it’s the kind of place you go to for a special occasion or for a night out to soak in the sights while sipping a cocktail.
| Name: | Top Of Hanoi |
| Address: | Lotte Tower, 54 P. Liễu Giai, Ngọc Khánh, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Heo Quay, Ga Rang Muoi, Seafood Fried Rice |
| Rating: | 4.1 / 5 |
Vincom Mega Mall Royal City
Vincom Mega Mall Royal City is a massive underground mall in Hanoi, offering a diverse range of shopping and dining options. It has a wide selection of name-brand items, but be prepared that prices may not be as affordable as expected, especially considering many consumer goods are produced locally in Vietnam.
Attractions and Shopping
The mall boasts a bowling alley and an ice skating rink, making it a fun destination for families and those looking for entertainment. The real highlight for us, however, is the Leka store, which offers 100% genuine cow leather goods at incredible prices. The quality of the leather is impressive, and it’s definitely a standout in the mall. Love picked up a purse and wallet, while I grabbed a body bag. Looking back, I regret not purchasing more items there, as the quality-to-price ratio is excellent.
Gogi House: A Flavorful Korean BBQ Experience
If you’re craving Korean BBQ, Gogi House offers a charcoal-grilled experience that sets it apart from the gas grills commonly found in places like Manila. The prices were reasonable, and the quality of beef was exceptional—definitely a step up from what I’ve tasted back home in Manila. The unlimited options made for an indulgent and satisfying meal, perfect for those who want to eat their fill of samgyupsal.
| Name: | Gogi House |
| Address: | Vincom Mega Mall Royal City, B2-R2-13, Khu đô thị Royal City, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam |
| What We Had: | Samgyupsal |
| Rating: | 4.2 / 5 |
Conclusion
Our journey to Hanoi was nothing short of transformative—a harmonious blend of discovery, indulgence, and connection. From the chaotic yet poetic streets filled with zooming mopeds to the quiet charm of midnight alleys, Hanoi captured our imagination in every moment. Its cultural depth, showcased in its French colonial architecture and local traditions, is rivaled only by its amazing food scene, where a bowl of pho or an order of bun cha becomes a story of flavor and history.
What made this adventure even more special was the serendipity of shared experiences. Whether it was discovering new cafes with Love, listening to Jeremy’s stories of life in Hanoi, or finding joy in something as simple as pre-ordered SIM cards, every detail fell into place as though this journey was meant to be.
Hanoi isn’t just a destination—it’s an experience that lingers. It’s in the way the city awakens your senses, challenges your assumptions, and leaves you yearning for just one more bowl of beef pho or one more stroll through its chaotic streets. As we boarded our flight back to Manila, we realized that Hanoi wasn’t just a chapter in our travels but a story we’d carry with us, ready to be revisited and shared.
Craving more guides? Don’t miss our Bangkok Street Food And Market Guide or Our Guide To Kuala Lumpur: Food & Hidden Gems.